Guy Pewsey talks to Anna Wintour about British fashion, her demanding reputation and the size zero phenomenonThe world of fashion is one of the most, if not the most, changeable industries in the world. Trends come and go, styles ebb and flow, and a single outfit goes from fabulous to heinous in the blink of an eye. And yet, in this fickle industry, there has been one constant: Anna Wintour. The so-called saviour of American Vogue, now in her twentieth year as editor-in chief, Wintour is in the front row of every runway show that matters.Wintour calls from Milan, undoubtedly in between shows. After her recent visit to London Fashion Week, I’m keen to discuss her impressions of this year’s collections at Britain’s only world-class fashion event. Wintour is highly complimentary; ‘I’m constantly amazed by the level of talent there,’ she says, making particular mention of younger designers Chris Kane and Jonathan Saunders. It is the lesser-known names which Wintour sees as London’s strength in comparison with its international competition. ‘I think what’s so great about London Fashion Week – it’s such an opportunity for overseas press and stores to see the new talent,’ says Wintour, ‘and I think that the British Fashion Council could even make more of an effort to make new fashion the raison d’etre.’ Wintour mentions the late Princess Diana as a figure who brought British fashion to the attention of the international press, and suggests that a similar figurehead, ‘someone from the royal family or a prominent politician’, could take more of a leadership role. One can only assume from Ms. Wintour’s track record that when it comes to such instructions, her advice should be taken as law. Her career has seen stints at Harper’s Bazaar, House and Garden, and both British and American Vogue which, in particular, greatly benefited from her Midas touch, transforming what has been described as a stagnant publication into the biggest-selling magazine of its kind. It will come as no surprise that such a feat was achieved through an almost ruthless efficiency, and Wintour seems content to acknowledge that those who may comment on her demanding nature are perfectly correct; ‘I am very demanding,’ she says, but in fashion, nice guys finish last and knowing what you want and how to get it is all part of the job description. Miranda Priestly, the unreasonably severe editor in 2006 blockbuster The Devil Wears Prada, is generally seen as a portrait of Wintour. Nevertheless, Ms. Wintour is comfortable with her reputation, reminding her critics of the dog-eat-dog nature of the fashion world; ‘I can only tell you that I’ve worked with many people for fifteen, twenty years and we’ve survived each other .’Trends on runways across the world are usually limited to the outfits themselves, and yet in recent years it has been impossible to ignore a development concerning the models themselves, the dangerous emergence of the size zero. I ask Wintour for her thoughts, and it is clear that she, perhaps more than anyone else, understands the true hazards of the choice to strive for such a goal; ‘I think it’s a real issue, it’s unfortunate that that these young women aren’t even fully grown yet.’ Wintour personally favours the models who appear ‘vibrant, alive and healthy’, mentioning supermodels Gisele Bundchen and Caroline Trentini as good examples of this healthier type. Wintour is determinedly frank about the size of models; ‘no designer is going to have a girl who’s a size 12 (a British size 16) on the runway’. So what can be done to stop such young girls following in the footsteps of Luisel Ramos, the Uruguayan model who died of self-starvation backstage at a fashion show? Wintour has been vocal in her suggestions, particularly regarding the younger models so popular with designers, and has worked with the CFDA (The Council of Fashion Designers of America) to introduce healthy food at shows and shoots, more favourable scheduling for such models, and the removal of alcohol from areas which underage participants of runway shows occupy. Whether or not such measures will be successful is yet to be seen, but Wintour is hopeful, mentioning this summer’s Olympics as potential motivation for individuals to favour the athletic body before the more emaciated alternative. Anna Wintour frequently comes under fire for controversial personal choices concerning issues such as the inclusion of fur in American Vogue. On her visit to Oxford though, her main opposition will come from those who find the fashion industry shallow and superficial. Her response is all I have come to expect from our brief conversation; intelligent, defiant and authoritative; ‘Fashion is big business, the biggest business in New York after Wall Street. Last year the fashion industry was worth something like 784 billion dollars, it gives people jobs; it employs 125,000 people in New York alone. It’s a very important global business.’ Whether it’s a matter of being won over by Wintour’s opinions, or stunned into silence by the reputation which precedes her, I, and indeed those who surround her at Vogue, are unlikely to disagree. Anna Wintour will be coming to the Oxford Union on Tuesday of 7th week
The beloved Bear’s Picnic festival will return for the 11th straight year, coming to Milmont, PA from August 4-7. Today, the festival has revealed their lineup, which features a number of Gratefully-inspired performers.The top billings go to Melvin Seals & JGB and John Kadlecik Band, but there’s plenty more music to love! You can catch the full lineup below, and head here for more information.Bear’s Picnic 2016 LineupMelvin Seals & JGB John Kadlecik Band Godfathers Of Pot Medicine Show Willie Jack & the Northern Light Still Hand String Band Mystery Fyre Dr. Slothclaw Crippled But Free Duck Duck Goose Mysterytrain . . . . . . . and More T.B.A.
Load remaining images On Friday, The Disco Biscuits returned to Denver, CO’s Ogden Theatre for the second night of their Bisco Inferno run, ahead of their headlining performance at Red Rocks Amphitheatre.The Disco Biscuits opened up their first set with “I Remember When”, which saw guitarist Jon “Barber” Gutwillig firing off explosive guitar licks out of the gates. With bassist Marc Brownstein and drummer Allen Aucoin holding down a tenacious rhythmic groove, keyboardist Aron Magner joined in the fun, layering a silky sonic tapestry behind Barber’s ever-evolving peaks. The quartet moved forward with an unfinished “Story Of The World” before sandwiching an inverted “Abraxas” inside a meaty “Shem Rah Boo” to close out the exploratory five-song set.Following a brief setbreak, The Disco Biscuits returned to open up their second set with “Little Betty Boop”. Brownie laid down the jam’s foundational fat bass riff before Barber and Magner soared off into exploratory, psychedelic territory. The Biscuits smoothly segued into a trancey “Lunar Pursuit”, which was followed up by a proper “Little Betty Boop” ending. The four-piece powerhouse kept on chugging with “The Champions”, followed by a scorching hot take on “That Sample Has A Name”. Backed by his fearless rhythm section, Barber dazzled the crowd with a series of quick-witted guitar licks. The Disco Biscuits landed back into “Story Of The World” to close out their second set, capping off one hell of a Friday night party. The band returned to deliver a lone encore of “Morph Dusseldorf”.Luckily for fans unable to attend, there’s full-show pro-shot video from Friday’s show, which you can watch below:The Disco Biscuits – Ogden Theatre – 5/24/2019 – Full Video[Video: The Disco Biscuits]Today, Saturday, May 25th, The Disco Biscuits are headed to Morrison, CO’s Red Rocks Amphitheatre for their headlining blowout with PNUMA Live. Check out a gallery of photos from the show below, courtesy of photographer Dave Vann.For ticketing, a full list of the band’s upcoming tour dates and more information, head to The Disco Biscuits’ website.Setlist: The Disco Biscuits | Ogden Theatre | Denver, CO | 5/24/2019Set One: I Remember When, Story of the World-> Shem Rah Boo-> Abraxas (inverted)-> Shem Rah BooSet Two: Little Betty Boop-> Lunar Pursuit-> Little Betty Boop-> The Champions-> That Sample Has a Name-> Story of the WorldEncore: Morph DusseldorfThe Disco Biscuits | The Ogden | Denver, CO | 5/24/19 | Photos: Dave Vann
Bedlam’s New York Animals has its cast in place! The previously reported new play from Tony winner Steven Sater (Spring Awakening), which will feature songs by Sater and the legendary Burt Bacharach, will play a limited engagement November 14 through December 20. Opening night is set for November 29 at New Ohio Theater off-Broadway.The cast will include Debra Barsha, Blanca Camacho, Ramsey Faragallah, Lena Gabrielle, Jo Lampert, Susannah Millonzi, Eric Tucker, David Wearn and Spiff Wiegand.From an East Village diner to a Park Avenue penthouse—four actors—twenty-one characters—love, sex, money, impossible relationships—just another rainy day in New York City, played to a live new soundtrack by Bacharach and Sater.Directed by Eric Tucker, New York Animals will feature set design by John McDermott, costume design by Nikki Delhomme, lighting design by Les Dickert, vocal design by AnnMarie Milazzo and musical direction by Debra Barsha. View Comments
19SHARESShareShareSharePrintMailGooglePinterestDiggRedditStumbleuponDeliciousBufferTumblr,John Pettit John Pettit is the Managing Editor for CUInsight.com. John manages the content on the site, including current news, editorial, press releases, jobs and events. He keeps the credit union … Web: www.cuinsight.com Details You’re a smart person and you do good work. So how come you’re not being noticed? Your boss isn’t recognizing the good work you do and your co-workers don’t appreciate you. Here are four steps you can take if you’re feeling overlooked…Keep your cool: When you’re feeling invisible, it can be frustrating. Try your best to remain calm and collected, and if you feel yourself reaching a breaking point, take a walk and calm yourself down. Nothing good can come from having a meltdown in the office, so get a little fresh air and take a few deep breaths to restore your sanity.Do some digging: As much as we hate to admit it, we are often the cause of our problems. Before you blame someone else, take a hard look at yourself. Have you done something to alienate yourself from your co-workers? Maybe you have and you don’t even realize it. Sometimes you’ll be more appreciated by becoming the best co-worker and employee that you can be. Think hard on it and give it a shot.Write off the need for recognition: You may feel like you’re doing exceptional work, and though you may be, it won’t always be rewarded with a parade and fireworks. If you know you’re doing great work, keep it up and it will lead to bigger and better things.Go somewhere else: If you can’t figure out why you’re being unappreciated, maybe the job just isn’t the best fit for you. If this is the case, don’t be afraid to walk away. Most of us have had a handful of jobs in our life, and it often takes time to find the perfect fit.
20SHARESShareShareSharePrintMailGooglePinterestDiggRedditStumbleuponDeliciousBufferTumblr Effective Jan. 1, federally regulated financial institutions in Canada are now required to meet the new Mortgage Stress Test Rule handed down from the Office of the Superintendent of Financial Institutions. While the rule won’t directly impact provincially regulated credit unions, there could be a trickle-down effect—resulting in both potential opportunity and risks for Canadian CUs.The rule requires buyers with uninsured mortgages to prove they can afford payments based on the greater of the Bank of Canada’s five-year benchmark rate (currently 4.99 percent) or their contract mortgage rate plus two percentage points. (Read more about qualified mortgages and the ability to repay in the U.S.)Stephen Kerr, a partner at the Canadian law firm Fasken Martineau, Toronto, shares his perspective. Specifically, he describes how Canadian credit unions can evaluate their mortgage underwriting guidelines to prepare for and perhaps take advantage of the new rule. continue reading »
“Are Apple’s engineers with the Foxconn engineers? If they are, they’re probably making progress. But if they’re not, if they’re quarantined, that could be bad.”While Apple uses other contract manufacturers such as Wistron Corp to make some iPhones, Taiwan’s Foxconn tends to handle the introduction of new models because its capabilities are the most advanced, supply chain experts said.Foxconn, the world’s largest contract electronics maker, delayed reopening key iPhone factories in Shenzhen and Zhengzhou after the Lunar New Year holiday but hopes to resume half of its Chinese production by the end of February.Senior Foxconn officials who have been working remotely from Taipei since the holiday have not yet returned to China on a large scale, a person with knowledge of the matter told Reuters, speaking of company officials generally. Travel restrictions to China because of the coronavirus have come just as Apple Inc’s engineers usually jet off to Asia to perfect the production of this fall’s new iPhones, former employees and supply chain experts told Reuters.High-volume manufacturing is not scheduled until summer, but the first months of the year are when Apple irons out assembly processes with partners such as Hon Hai Precision Industry Co’s Foxconn, two former Apple employees said.“They probably have one assembly line they’re trying things out on,” said one of the former employees who asked not to be named discussing production matters. Apple declined to comment. Foxconn Technology Group said in an emailed statement on Tuesday that the company is following all legally required health and safety practices at its factories to protect employee welfare.“Consistent with this, we are taking a cautious approach in the implementation of our post-holiday production schedules in each of our facilities in China,” the company said.Last week, Apple warned investors it was unlikely to meet revenue targets for the first three months of 2020 and that global iPhone supplies would be limited as manufacturing sites in China were not ramping up production as quickly as expected.Foxconn said this month that the coronavirus outbreak would lower its revenue this year.Earlier this month, United Airlines, which has disclosed that Apple is a major customer, said it was cancelling all fights to China until late April. Apple, meanwhile, said on Jan. 28 that it was restricting employee to travel to China to “business-critical” situations.Medical workers in protective suits check a CT (computed tomography) scan image of a patient at a community health service center, which has an isolated section to receive patients with mild symptoms caused by the novel coronavirus and suspected patients of the virus, in Qingshan district of Wuhan, Hubei province, China February 8, 2020. (REUTERS/China Daily)Collaboration criticalFor new iPhone models, the transition from prototype to the assembly of millions of units starts in earnest when the Lunar New Year holiday in China ends in late January and early February, people familiar with the process said.At that point, Apple has tested numerous prototypes and is in the late stages of what is called engineering validation, in which Foxconn workers assemble small numbers of devices while engineers from both firms troubleshoot.If delays occur at this stage it would eat into the time Apple needs to finalize orders for chips and other parts, almost all of which are custom-made for the iPhone.Because of the huge volumes needed, “they can’t wait to make component selections”, said Ron Keith, founder of Supply Chain Resources Group, which works with electronics makers such as Alphabet Inc’s Nest.In March and April, Apple engineers typically work with Foxconn counterparts to set up new assembly lines and do trial runs, before making final adjustments in April and May. The aim is to have production lines up and running in June so others can be added progressively to ramp up output.“It’s very complicated. There are so many variables in the environment, including small factors such as air pollution,” one of the people familiar with the process said.Anna-Katrina Shedletsky, a former Apple engineer and founder of Instrumental, a startup focused on factory automation based in Mountain View, California, said on-the-ground engineering collaboration was critical for new products.“You can fly those engineers somewhere else but there’s knowledge about how you make a product in that environment. It’s not that it can’t be taught but it’s a hard thing to move,” she said.While supply chain experts and industry insiders say Apple still has time to keep its annual iPhone schedule on track, travel restrictions have left it in a tough spot.“There is no face-to-face work being done,” an executive at a semiconductor firm that supplies smartphone companies and works with teams in China said, speaking generally about phone production cycles.“And the word is, that’s probably not going to change for another month at best. You’re really talking about two lost months, which in the consumer electronics cycle is huge.”Topics :
Fidelity also found that institutional investors around the world expected markets and decision-making to become faster, accurate and more efficient as new technologies took hold.Nearly two thirds (62%) of respondents said they believed trading algorithms and sophisticated quantitative models would make markets more efficient, and 80% thought blockchain and similar technologies would fundamentally change the industry.Most investors said they expected to rely on AI in the near future for certain business functions: 69% of respondents said they expected to rely on AI for optimising asset allocation in the near future, while 67% foresaw themselves relying on the technology for monitoring and evaluating manager and portfolio performance and risk.Nearly 40% said they expected to use it to make custom portfolios without the help of asset managers.However, only 10% respondents told the researchers that they had already fully integrated the technology into investment processes.Paras Anand, head of asset management, Asia Pacific, at Fidelity International, warned that following new data sources or algorithms should not be done blindly.“AI is not capable of making investment decisions alone and more data can simply give way to the risk of mistaking mere noise for valuable insight,” he said. “But if carefully considered investors can embrace AI to enhance their process.”The survey respondents included pension funds, insurance companies and financial institutions with a collective $29trn (€25trn) of assets under management. Most institutional investors believe technological advances such as artificial intelligence (AI) and blockchain will transform the investment industry in the next seven years – but few have used them yet.After polling 905 investors from 25 countries, Fidelity Institutional Asset Management said its research suggested that institutional investors “appear to be at a crossroads in their understanding of how man versus machine will play out”.Its Global Institutional Investor Survey reported that 53% institutional investors believed technology would replace traditional investment roles.However, many said the human connection would continue to be important, with 60% believing AI would augment jobs rather than replace them.
Rooney became the third-highest scorer in Premier League history when he opened the scoring for United with a deft volley and Robin van Persie doubled the lead with his 50th goal for the club. Rooney then put his team’s chances in jeopardy by kicking out at Stewart Downing, but despite Diafra Sakho’s header making it awkward, Louis van Gaal’s side held on for a 2-1 win. The expert execution of the volley across the West Ham goalkeeper was befitting of a striker whose Premier League scoring record is only bettered by Andy Cole and Alan Shearer. United’s creaky defence almost cost them the lead within one minute of Rooney’s goal. Daley Blind’s miscued clearance landed straight into the stride of Enner Valencia, but he blasted into the Stretford End. It was a let-off for the hosts, who quickly sought to settle the nervy home crowd with a second goal. Rooney found Van Persie at the back post with a delightful cross, but the Dutchman headed wide. Angel di Maria shot high and wide from inside the West Ham box and Rooney then fluffed a shot inside the area. Van Persie had no such trouble in the 23rd minute when he put United 2-0 up. Adrian put Alex Song under pressure with a poor clearance and United took full advantage. Ander Herrera nicked the ball off the Barcelona loanee and Van Persie angled his shot past the West Ham goalkeeper after a clever pass from Falcao. For all their attacking brilliance, at the back United still looked suspect. Song slipped Sakho in behind, but Marcos Rojo raced across to put in a vital tackle. Sakho found the net a few minutes later though, due to a rare error from David de Gea. Song hit the bar with a header after the Spaniard flapped at a corner and the ball fell to Sakho, who headed into an empty net. Sakho put McNair under pressure as United desperately tried to hold on to their lead before the break. After the break, West Ham continued to press. Aside from a shot by Falcao, United offered little on the attack. Slack marking from debutant Luke Shaw allowed Sakho to sting De Gea’s palms with a fierce volley. United looked shaky in the face of West Ham’s attacking play, and their task was made much harder when Rooney was sent off just before the hour. The United captain, unable to catch Downing, kicked the midfielder from behind while he was at full pace. Referee Lee Mason blew his whistle and then, to the shock of the home fans and players, showed Rooney his first red card for United in five-and-a-half years. Van Gaal looked to shore up his team by bringing Darren Fletcher on for Falcao. West Ham sent Carlton Cole on and looked to press home their numerical advantage. Sakho rippled the side-netting and Valencia’s deflected shot flew inches wide as West Ham piled on pressure. Herrera hobbled off with a back injury before McNair made a goal-saving header deep inside the home box. Kevin Nolan turned in Carl Jenkinson’s cross in the 89th minute, but linesman Andrew Garratt flagged for offside and United held on to record the second win of Van Gaal’s tenure. Wayne Rooney’s reckless dismissal did not stop Manchester United from returning to winning ways as they edged past West Ham on a nervy afternoon at Old Trafford. Just like in last week’s shock defeat to Leicester, United looked very impressive at times going forward. The attacking trio of Rooney, Van Persie and Radamel Falcao combined well up front, until the United captain was sent off in the 59th minute for the foul, which occurred deep inside his own half. At the back, United looked vulnerable once again, although in fairness to Van Gaal, his injury troubles were so bad that he had to give 19-year-old centre-back Paddy McNair a debut. Of more concern to Van Gaal will be Rooney’s absence, which will last three matches if the dismissal is deemed to be violent conduct by the Football Association. That would rule the United skipper out of the forthcoming games against Everton, West Brom and Chelsea – three games United will want to win to put themselves firmly back in the hunt for the Champions League places. The desire to put last week’s capitulation to bed was clear from the first whistle. United hit West Ham with attack after attack, and it took less than five minutes for the hosts to break the deadlock. Rafael sprinted down the right flank after dinking the ball over Aaron Cresswell. The Brazilian paused and crossed for Rooney, who volleyed past Adrian after one bounce. Press Association
On Nov. 20 the gourmet hot dog and sausage restaurant chain Dog Haus will open its 12th location at University Park. Earlier in the semester, Dog Haus began selling three signature hot dogs specifically for the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum.Those mourning the loss of Freebirds on Figueroa will find a replacement in the craft casual hot dog concept of this Pasadena-based chain, which will operate at 3335 S. Figueroa St. every day from 7 a.m. to midnight.On Figueroa, Dog Haus will serve hot dogs, burgers, chili cheese tots and milkshakes, along with several of their own creations. These include the Downtown Dog — a bacon wrapped hot dog topped with caramelized onions, bell peppers and other toppings, and The Fonz, spicy Italian sausage with pastrami and melted mozzarella.According to a recent press release, the location also hopes to provide diners with a wine and beer menu by the end of the year.The USC location will be the first to offer breakfast options. These will be served daily as well, from 7 a.m. to 11 a.m., and will feature a Build Your Own Breakfast Burrito menu.Dog Haus describes its brand as “fast casual” and aims to give diners a throwback to backyard hot dog and burger barbecues with a modern aesthetic.Recently, the company has undergone expansion. The first of two locations in Pasadena opened in 2010, and the chain has grown to 10 franchise stores since, the 10th being at USC.The franchisee, Tenny Megerdichian, is an original founder’s sister. She said she has liked watching the hot dog chain’s growth.“It has been incredible to see this brand grow over the past years, and I am so proud of what my brother and his business partners have accomplished in just five years,” Megerdichian said in a press release. “I’m honored to officially become part of the Dog Haus family with this opening and can’t wait to bring the absolute würst to the USC community!”From 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Nov. 20, the new location will offer customers a free Haus Dog from their menu of seven signature hot dogs.